Amy's Bombdiggity Blog

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

An interesting article

Here's an interesting article from the L.A. Times that I feel encompasses a lot of things that come up in my daily conversations with friends/co-workers here in Senegal...

A PASSAGE BOUYED BY HOPE ALONE (By Robyn Dixon, Times Staff Writer.March 16, 2007)

"In Yarakh Tableau, a big departure point, children scuttle along narrow sandy alleys and women throw their household trash on the white shore. People here darken with suspicion at strangers with questions about the candidates.One woman who recently lost a son at sea peeked out of her front door: "I don't know anything about it," she said.There's an added resentment here, a feeling that Western nations vacuum up Africa's resources while keeping a firm clamp on visas. Senegalese fishermen now compete with industrial-scale fishing vessels from Europe and complain that the sea is now so overfished that it's difficult for them to make a living in their own waters.Still, Senegal is not nearly Africa's poorest country: 21 sub-Saharan countries, including the continent's biggest oil power, Nigeria, rate lower on the United Nations Development Program's human development index. The exodus raises questions about why such a large slice of the country's youth, and their parents, wives and families, has lost hope."Those who are going are not the poorest of the poor," said Senegalese political analyst Hamadou Tidiane Sy, blaming the government for failing to stem the tide, and parents for letting sons go in the hope of raising the family's status. "With the whole immigration issue, I think there's a lot of greed. It's a problem of values being lost and faith being lost: faith in oneself, faith in one's country and faith in God."Moussa Ndoya, 28, left Kayar because "you know that if you go to Europe, no matter what happens, it's going to be better than here."Two of 112 candidates on his voyage died of fever after drinking bad water."We had to throw them into the sea," the fisherman said. "The sea was so rough. It was so windy. The waves are not like the waves around here. I was so frightened because one part of the boat broke and water was getting in. We were all racing to bail out water."It happened on the sixth day, forcing all of them to sit at one end. The boat slowed to a crawl to stop the water flooding in, but as the days wore on, panic set in, sparking a brawl."People said, 'We're lost and we're so far from shore.' Some were crying. One day there was a big fight in the boat when some said we must turn back and others said we should go on. The captain said, 'We will never turn back.' "After nine days at sea, the boat made it to Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, but the travelers were among thousands sent back by plane.Senegal is a superstitious country, and fearsome stories of what can go wrong abound, all avidly believed."Sometimes in the middle of the night you see someone with lightning in his eyes," Diop said. "Sometimes you see a man-eater looking at you in the middle of the night on the high seas. Sometimes these demons or man-eaters will say words that you as a human are not ready to hear. You are a simple man with no strong protection: What can you do?"But the weather, the deaths, the demons, the patrols designed to intercept the vessels and even the repatriations do little to discourage candidates. Locals predict that in August, when seas are calm, many more vessels will go.IN many cases, a family meeting is called in which the elder members decide to do all that is necessary to put at least one person on a boat. Sometimes it means that the family's sources of livelihood, such as its boat and engine, cattle or land, must be sold."You see families sell houses, rings, valuables. They're ready to sell everything, and they're happy to do it so their sons can go," said Dieng, the photographer."Most of the family members sit together and discuss the problem and decide together that this one is ready to go. It's very important for every family to have a candidate."When a candidate gets to Europe and sends back money, the family uses it to build houses, buy cars and often to send more sons to the seas.Standing amid racks of salted, drying fish, Maty Ndaw can't help puffing a little with pride when talking about her three sons, 16, 20 and 23, all candidates who made it across to the other world last year, giving her status and respect among her neighbors. She has a 7-year-old and hopes he will go too when he is old enough."Everyone wants to have a son there," she said. "It's a source of advancement…. It's a great pride to be represented by our sons overseas to enable us to have nicer houses and more money. That way people respect you and think highly of you."Aram Leye, a widow and mother of eight, might have had dreams like that, once. Now, sitting in a dark room with scratched walls and tumbledown furniture, with goats wandering by the door, she mourns her oldest and closest son, Sinii Pate Gueye, 30.She finds herself drawn to the shore early in the morning, where she gazes out to the distant horizon."I have all these memories," she said. "I go to the sea all the time and I say prayers for my son, thinking this is the path he took to his grave. And I feel closer to him."Gueye, a jobless welder in Thiaroye-sur-Mer, went to sea in February last year, leaving his mother, a wife and week-old baby daughter. Nothing was ever heard of the boat or its fate.She has three surviving sons."My other sons will never try it," she said. "No, a thousand times no. No more sea."

So let me know... what do you guys think? Thoughts? Opinions?

2 Comments:

At 5:45 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Very good article. The grass is always greener? Too bad the families must be split up. The income from a first world job has got to be better than fishing on the beach in Senegal. Interesting there are not the opportunities in Senegal after the French got done with it.

It is sort of like why we had you sent to Africa. You actually are there to send home really good stories of your dining and travel adventures across Senegal for all of us to enjoy your experiences vicariously. :)

Our mundane lives are all enriched by your exotic African photos, stories and adventures. Plus you are doing good things for the Talibe.

Now, if we could just figure out how to attach a web cam to your hat, we could follow you around "live" w/skype. Keep up the great blogging!

 
At 7:35 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

More Blog please....

Another Talibe story?

 

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